Saturday, September 01, 2007

Italy

I'm back from Italy. Beaten, enlightened, stimulated, frustrated, excited, indifferent... all of these and more. Aside from the time I spent in Italy and the things I was able to see, this has been one of the worst experiences of my life. Travel arrangements, the airline losing my luggage, passport complications, too much time away from home, etc.

Nonetheless, I'm glad I went through it, and I have a set of experiences on which to draw in the future, experiences I would not otherwise have had an opportunity to have. I chronicled random thoughts, places, feelings in a cheap journal I picked up in Rome, and here they are. I did not want to make a long, unabridged post for all of them, so I broke them down by day. They're tagged under 'Italy.' Be patient, as there is a lot to add. I should have them all up soon!

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Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Aug 22

Yesterday I did absolutely nothing but sit in this hotel room and watch TV that I can't even understand, so I watched a lot of MTV. I came to this conclusion: MTV is shitty everywhere, not just the States. They play more music than anything else, here, though.

I was ready to venture out last night to find the Indian restaurant. I got to the door, saw that it was raining, turned back around. I hate that I'm still here. I don't like Venice at all. I'm over travel for awhile. I just want to be home now. My energy is gone, I'm not excited. I feel more depressed than anything else.

If I ever do this again, it will be with friends. I think that's the only way I could be gone this long and enjoy it. This is just ridiculous.

We fly out of Rome tomorrow.



Almost 5:00p and I am bored out of my mind. Spent the entire day lying in bed watching TV. I want to be anywhere else. I'd go out if I felt at all like dealing w/Venice. What am I, 16 again? This is such a stupid way to feel. It's probably a stupid way to deal w/the situation, too. At this point I don't care. I want to be HOME. I can't really leave anyway until Tina & Cassidy come back, so I can give them keys to get into the room. But I am getting hungry, and I ate all my food earlier (breakfast here is really shitty, even for Italy). Indian food vs. my will not to get off my ass & face the day, Round 2.

[Prologue: My will not to get off my ass & face the day won, again.]

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Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Aug 21

Is it time to fly home yet? That is all I can think about. Venice is not that wonderful. Charming, but that's all. Charm wears off. Streets are more like an endless, broken grid of alleys. They are packed with crowds of people gawking at all the masks & Venetian glass, and they don't care whose way they are in or about walking any faster than toddlers. I love people. I hate crowds.

Food is so overpriced here, to boot. Last night was fun, but on 3 beers, spaghetti, and two sides of fries, I dropped €45. That's about $60. Fuck me.

I can't bring myself to do anything outside. I have no energy to spend. I'm fucking hungry, though. I don't feel like dropping €20 on a damn sandwich, so I'll probably try to find a supermarket. There's supposed to be an Indian restaurant around here somewhere. Hopefully they're open tonight, and hopefully they're cheap.

Fuckkkkk.

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Monday, August 20, 2007

Aug 20

Went to Vincenza today to escape the tourism of San Marco square in Venice (I think that is by and far the worst section of the city), only to find it sleeping. Everything there is closed on Mondays. Came back early, ate too much chocolate, watched Italy's version of MTV's TRL out of sheer boredom (can't emphasize that enough). I tried sleeping for a bit, only to have a half-lucid dream about dying and having an out of body experience in the presence of the devil, of all entities, and his hell. I don't know whether to blame the chocolate or MTV.

Right now I just finished a dinner of spaghetti in tomato basil sauce, followed by french fries, at a nice, slightly overpriced jazz bar. The staff here is extremely friendly, and they serve a mean pint. When they say grande, they mean it.

Tina & Cassidy are leaving for Verona tomorrow for Verona [indication of drunkenness (sp?)] to see a ballet. I am slightly jealous. However, I mostly say that, I think, out of a desperate need to pass time until flying home, which I am very much looking forward to.

I think I probably look ridiculous writing this in a fully... full... jazz bar. But I'm also a little above (or below, or beyond, or past the point of) sobriety, and I should not, and therefore don't, expect to care. Cheers.



I ordered a third 'grande' and a second plate of patate fritte (fries). You only live once, right?

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Sunday, August 19, 2007

Aug 19

Howard Zinn has officially transformed me. I can no longer consider myself a 'liberal Democrat' under the pretense of it indicating my goals & humanitarian/environmentalist philosophies. How could I have been so blind for so long to the emptiness of any major party in a two-party system, Republican or Democrat? How could I have been so oblivious to the fundamental similarities they share? How did I buy in, so confidently, to the images they project? Without ever considering the fact that so little has ever changed under the influence of either party? We've never stopped waging wars or conducting 'military interventions.' We never solved unemployment. We never seriously addressed racism & class hatred. Indeed, we have continued to bleed 99% of our people for the advantage of the elite 1%. How did I never see this before?

The answer is simple: No one told me. Not in schools, not in college, not on 'political debate' shows, not on the news, not in the paper, not in magazines, not in movies—nowhere in popular culture that is accessible to the majority of common people. I stumbled on the realization, the awakening, by chance in a semipopular (by mainstream standards) alternative history book. There is something deeply, fundamentally wrong with that. These issues are so important, so far-reaching, so unifying that everyone needs to know about them. It goes beyond street preaching and leafletting, though these certainly help. Indeed, it goes to the core of cultural assimilation and the devices of upbringing and social indoctrination, to use that term in a hopefully neutral, utilitarian way. It goes essentially to the structures and systems of education.

Over the past year or so I have been toying with the idea of pursuing a career in education. I realized many months ago that I want nothing to do with the business world or the degree I'm pursuing in that field. I've been trying to find a sense of direction, and education is something I've been considering. I think, through this political awakening and soul-searching, I may have found my affirmation. I'm not entirely sure yet, but I do know I want to commit my profession to enhancing my community in a noncorporate way, to working in and contributing to the growing movement for social, environmental, political change. Teaching others about these principles in a setting meant to shape their identities, their senses of citizenry and personal responsibilities could certainly accomplish those goals. So we'll see. It's nice to be awakened.



if nothing else but sun
shall enter a room
by window, by doorway, by mirror
let it not spoil on some wasted,
wasteful symbol of modern society:
coffee, hot in the mug, of broken
foreign spine & wanting mouth;
chocolate, sweet and normal, of
forced hands upon slaved Ivory shores.
let it touch what touches us more —
shadowy corners, glass edges, the
written word between unread covers.
let it illuminate as it should
so that we may see things,
the world, its objects, as they are,
free of shadow, forever beginning,
so that we forever remember we
are never too far from the start.



Four more days to go. I've heard so many different things about Venice that I don't know what to expect. Dirty, busy, small, wonderful, dangerous, boring, romantic....... I'll find out soon.

Knowing that this is our last stop before home is very comforting. I wonder whether or not it will seem strange to be back somewhere where I can understand what's being said around me. I think the first order of business will be eating as much non-Italian food as I possibly can.

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Saturday, August 18, 2007

Aug 18

BOLOGNA is a city on vacation. Maybe 2 out of 10 places I pass is actually open. In a way, it's comforting. Very comforting. For the moment, and those of the past several days, a place matches my mood. The architecture (sp?) is beautiful in a calm sort of way; designs are simple but old and heavy and everything is grandiose, though that may not be the term I want. Buildings, walkways, arcs, piazzas are huge, as though built on a larger scale. Tina's readings explain that Bologna is/was a hub for communism in the country. This is evidenced around the university district, where posters, graffiti, flyers denounce capitalism and fascism. How simply refreshing. I've been pounding away at Zinn's People's History of the US, and it is so accurate it's depressing. Taking a break from dominant, capitalism-pervasive society is in many ways relaxing. It's nice that everyone vacations at the same time, that work days are not 9/10/11+ hours long. If only I could bring these trends back with me.

Right now I sit in the Parco della Montagnola, trying to resolve myself to enjoy these last five days here. Trying to find little things to focus on, to remind myself that this is an experience I want to remember fondly, one I'm not soon likely to repeat. Trying to find purpose & meaning in having dropped my life on its face for three weeks. Well, this park, with its fountain and statues and theatres and stairways, is making it a little easier to accomplish.

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Thursday, August 16, 2007

randoms

  • i've eaten a lot of nonvegan breakfasts, which hurts. Italians eat a lot of pastries and not much else besides sliced meat and cheese for breakfast. i eat pastries that i know are loaded with eggs & butter. they don't even taste good, either.
  • the black pen died! the blue pen is not a suitable replacement.
  • my skin hates the sun. my arms have broken out in protest of daily sunscreen regiments, and i still have a farmer tan.
  • lots of soccer! i don't get to see it in the states w/out cable. this is wondahful.
  • italian kids like anime, too. weird.
  • italy is a lot more 'green' than us. i'm pretty inspired and really jealous.
  • i miss my cell phone. i never thought it would come to this.
  • i have no watch and i rarely know what time it is. italian hotels do not believe in clocks.
  • overdubbing is wicked. wicked lame.
  • during a nap today i dreamt i was part of an fbi plot to terrorize julia roberts, and as such i raped her. umm... no more sleeping on park benches for me.

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Aug 16

NO LUCK. The train to Milano Centrale does not come often, owed to the fact that it's a 3 hr. ride. Once I got to the station, I found that there is more than one airport in Milan before proceeding to buy a bus ticket to the wrong one, another 1.5 hours away. By this time it was 6:45p, and any hope of making it to the correct airport in time to get on a plain [sic] was null.

By the time I made it back to the hotel, it was 11:30p. Miscommunication w/Tina led her to pick up my hotel keys, thinking I had gotten a flight (I think?), and the man at reception did not speak enough English—and I did not speak enough Italian—to explain the situation. He would not let me into the room, and it was too late in the night to find another room. So I settled on a park bench w/all of my junk for the night. Around 7:40a this morning the man from last night recognized me, stopped, and told me to go back to the hotel because the man at the desk now could speak English. He was kind... I think he took pity. I felt miserable, beaten. I'm sure I looked it. I hadn't eaten anything but a chocolate bar & potato chips all day, and my only source of H2O came from a pint of Moretti I drank while hiking around for two hours with a 35lb backpack, trying to figure out what the fuck to do at 1:00am.

All is well now, though. The man at the desk this morning was the same one w/whom I left my keys yesterday, so he gave me a spare & let me in. After a shower, a gratuitous breakfast (undoubtedly non-vegan... see next section) and some actual sleep, I am rejuvenated. Just sitting here waiting for Tina to call so I can get my keys back.

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Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Aug 15

Some serious thinking led to me sitting here at the train station in Monterosso, trying to get back home. I'm not sure if it will even work; I'm going to the airport in Milan and hoping to get a standby flight back to Detroit or even London. I cannot legitimately change my booking without coughing up $1,200, so if this doesn't work, I'll be here for the duration. We'll see. I've never tried anything like this before, so I have no idea what to expect. I just don't want to get stranded.

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Monday, August 13, 2007

Aug 13

Homesickness from Firenze has intensified. Tina asked me at lunch in a direct way if I had enough $$ and the desire to go home early. I told her I'd need to check w/my bank.

I don't want to go back early. I want to know I can last three mere weeks out of my comfort zone w/o ordinary luxuries. Ten more days seems like forever.

I am exhausted from traveling & seeing things & finding ways to fill my time in situations I would otherwise rarely, if ever, be in.

That Tina sees it or perceives it enough in me to ask me if I want to leave is troubling. Part of me wonders whether she & Cassidy are too uncomfortable w/me here. I'd like not to think so, but... she asked me straight out. Maybe agreeing to this back in March was a mistake. Maybe I did jump w/o thinking. It feels like it.

It boils down to timing, I think. This trip for me wasn't even secured until almost the last day. At least half of me was resolved to stay home & not put in the 110% it took to finalize my passport. The time is not right. I wasn't ready to leave yet. I just started life in Chicago. I got used to seeing people I hadn't seen in the months before moving. I got used to seeing new people. I just finalized paperwork for my first big city apartment (and my first solo one in a year), which was a task. Add to all that I've had no income for most of the summer, am broke to the point of anxiety, and owe at least $600 to a bike shop doing custom work for me (on top of the $650 I still owe my new landlords). Obviously I have things to settle in Chicago.

What the fuck am I doing in Italy?

Side note — I don't know how my dad deals w/this mother-daughter dynamic on a daily basis. He deserves a shiny gold medal or ten. Jesus Christ.

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Sunday, August 12, 2007

Aug 11(?)

Firenze reminds me of Chicago. Instantly I am homesick. I think think think today is the 11th, but I am not sure. It is Saturday, though. We came here for the day from Greve, and I am out of things to do. Currently I'm in a park, on the ground, and I'm pretty sure my ass is wet from yesterday's rain.

W/as many Americans in Firenze as there are right now, it might as well be Chicago. I ran into a British couple from the train, and that is still their #1 complaint. Too many Americans now. Even on vacation, we're notably imperialistic.

Finished The God Delusion on the bus — Richard Dawkins! If I can finish Howard Zinn before going back to the states, I'll feel accomplished.

Realization: I will never again take for granted free public restrooms back home.

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Thursday, August 09, 2007

Aug 9!

I have been reading a lot so far this trip. I finished both editions of the Kicking at Clouds 'zine. The first one regarding the issue of Occupied Palestine really was a good read. It brought out a lot of hostility toward Israel that I usually keep private, because idiotic people seem to take 'Fuck Israel' as 'Fuck Jews.' I think I will make more of an effort not to withhold myself in the future, after reading those memoirs. What a completely fucked up situation.

Last night I passed a candle light demonstration in the heart of Rome denouncing the Olympics next year in China, on the grounds of their invasion and occupation of Tibet. What is it about mighty nations exerting themselves onto neighbor nations incapable of defending themselves? What is it about humanity that is so exploitative of people?

Unrelated ... We picked up a rental car today in Siena. A Fiat manual transmission to get us around Tuscany. We drove to Greve in Chianti (that's the official name of the town...) and I have never been so terrified in a car as I was today. The Italians are horrible road designers and even crazier drivers. But more importantly—fuck cars. Steel coffins with combustible gas tanks.

Tuscany is beautiful. We are staying on a castle estate/vineyard, full of green, green and more green. Rolling hills, acres of grapevine, sunflower fields. I cannot wait to go for a walk tomorrow. The wine is amazing.

Greve is a wonderful town. It has a coop grocery! It has a few other coop things & tons of shops. Very clean. Reminds me of Boulder, CO. I'm glad to be here, even if it took ten years off my life on the drive over.

Time for more Richard Dawkins before falling asleep in a queen size bed ALL TO MYSELF.

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Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Aug 8.

It's taken me a bit longer than it should have to pick up this habit empty book. I've been in Italy for six days already (1/3 done). Currently we are in Rome. Siamo in Roma! This is the 2nd time here. So far it's been Rome, Positano, Rome. From here I forget where we are going next.

This is the first stay so far in which I have a separate room from my stepmom & stepsister. I am thankful. I know my ss is/always has been spoiled (probably owed to her upper middle class, single child upbringing), but I have not been in a position to experience it over the course of many days. It's a little startling.

My opinion, or at least my observation, is that she is uncomfortable in adulthood, or maybe she misses the luxuries of a child. She has referred to herself as "Little Cassidy," complained about her "poor little legs," chews w/open mouth & smacks her lips, talks loudly on the phone, and, as far as it is fair to say so without having had it focused on me, lives within a general sense of disregard, apathy & entitlement.

I like my stepsister, but I am too glad not to know her. I doubt I could be so obliging.

So far Italy is ... a foreign country. People look at my tight jeans with a sense of "...OK...." I feel very American. Knowing I have three weeks here kills my sense of adventure and triggers my sense of patience. I miss Chicago & my friends. I do not feel at home. I no longer care about ruins or cathedrals or beaches. I miss having my clothes on hangers, ingredients listed on packaging, my social life, the internet, frugality. I like traveling... I just wish I didn't feel so damned privileged doing it.

I keep nodding off while writing, so it is time for siesta. I love the Europeans.



If I had to describe what i've seen of Italia so far, the first thing on the list would be the aspect (perhaps degree would be a better word) of affection & romance Italians have. Anywhere that's not the big city is tagged with '(insert name) ti amo.' People stroll, dine, sit, relax w/their partners to the extent that I've noticed how individualized and independent we make ourselves in the US, by contrast. Coincidentally, two (three?) nights ago I had one of those DREAM LOVER dreams—the ones where you are in love w/the perfect person, and it feels like nothing you can put into words. The way they look, how they feel, how for once, finally, it clicked. It was a continuous dream that survived a night of light, infrequent sleep. It was the 1st of its kind since high school 'depression' years, and it's one of very few dreams in recent years that I could vividly recall the next day. I awoke feeling euphric, and sad. I've long since given up—and indeed sworn off—relationships and pining for them. This dream was a blow to my convictions. Right when you think you know your own imagination...

Tonight I ate Indian food for the first time since leaving Ann Arbor, arguably some of the best I've had, at that. Food for the soul.

Italian espresso beats American espresso, so far. I really need to get one of those stovetop Bialetti doodads that Erik has.

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